THE CAMP OF INSTRUCTION HAS BEEN CANCELLED A SUBSTITUTE EVENT IS BEING PLANNED- STAY TUNED

Camp of Instruction 

Join us for a unique living history experience at Fort Fetterman in Wyoming.  Fort Fetterman, an 1867 wooden fort guarded the Bozeman Trail and is best remembered for its roll in the Battle of the Hundred-in-the-Hands (a.k.a. The Fetterman Massacre). 

​The event will provide training aimed at improving living history representations of those portraying civilians and soldiers of the 1860s.  Instructors include National Association for Interpretation's Master of Interpretation John C.F. Luzader as well as several other veteran interpreters.  Instructors and participants will work together in an immersive learning experience including topics such as clothing, equipment, politics, culture, diction, drill, and history necessary for taking your representation to the next level of authenticity.  

This event is preparation for a 2019 event at Fort Laramie, recreating life at the post during the Fort Laramie Treaty signing in 1868.

David Jamiel, former director of the California Trails Center near Elko, NV, will give a talk on Friday night at 6:00 p.m.

Camp of Instruction Fort Fetterman
Dates- May 11-13, 2018

Leadership Structure-

Military
Robert Cauvas- Major
Kevin Hall- Captain
Kurt Knerium- Lt
Daniel Mattern. 1st Sgt
Aaron Klass-2nd Sgt
Nick S –Captain Medical Surgeon
Civilians
John C.F.  Luzader
John Steinle
Bruce Berst

Schedule
Friday 
Set up camp
Saturday 
0530-reville
0600 -open
0630 -0730dHow to cook rations/prepare recipes-Military/Civilians
0800- Breakfast
0900- open
10:00-12:00pm Historical Interpretation/Reenacting (John C.F. Luzader)-Military/Civilians
12:00pm Dinner
1:00pm-open
2:00pm-open
3:00pm-open
4:00pm-The experience of Emigrant trails in the late 1860s (John Steinle) Military/Civilians
5:00pm-Experiences in period on Colorado trail last Summer and what clothing and gear using throughout jounery (Aaron Klass) Military/Civilians
6:00pm- supper
7:00pm- Flag Lowering
8pm-open
9pm-open
10pm lights out
Sunday 
0600-reville
0630-open
0700-Breakfast
0800-open
0900am-How to better prepare for your persona (John C.F.  Luzder) Military/Civilians
10:00am-open
11:00am -open
12:00pm-Dinner
1:00pm-Poplar Cultures of 1860s (john Steinle) Military/Civilvains
2:00pm first person medicine show (Bruce Berst) Military/Civilians
3pm-break camp

What to Bring (military)
No Cartiages on site for event all Cartiages must be kept in vehicles or stored away.
​ Command Staff is all in place for weekend including sgts the only thing that we will be assigning are Cpl positions 
Soldiers
2 pairs of wool socks
Flannel Underware/muslin
Muslin or Cottern Shirt
4 button Sack Coat
Sky blue Trousers
Caritage box/with sling
Cap pouch
Haversack
Canteen
Forage Cap/or Campania Style hat
Brogans
White Gloves
Knapsack/bedroll
Tent
1861 .58 caliber Springfield musket/1853 Enfield musket
Generic Uniform Guidelines 

• Headgear
  • Forage Cap
    • Finely woven dark blue or royal blue wool (not navy blue) with painted leather brim and chin strap.
    • Plain US regulation, small size buttons. Black or brown polished cotton or Selisia liner.
    • Should not be worn with the sides of the brim rolled under as a modern baseball cap
    • Insignia: Cavalry, unlike the infantry, were issued hat brass for forage caps. Inspection records show "deficiencies" where the men are NOT wearing required insignia of regimental number, crossed sabres, and company letter. This means also that many men were wearing only some or no hat brass.
  • Hardee Hat
    • 1/4 inch ribbon at base of crown.
    • 2 rows of stitching on brim.
    • shellacked with label inside.
  • Slouch & other non issue headgear - Period types only!
    • Sewn-on edge binding of silk ribbon
    • Leather or cotton duck sweat band
    • Made of fine wool felt without a `fuzzy' appearance.
    • Medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, or black, with black preferred.
    • No Stetson’s (Cowboy Hats).
    • No limp hillbilly farmer hats.
    • No hat cords of any color.
    • no stampede strings
    • Hardee hat turned slouch is perfectly acceptable (see above).
• Jackets
  • Mounted Service Jacket
    • Of dark blue or royal blue wool broad-cloth or fine kersey.
    • Padded or Quilted front
    • Yellow dyed worsted wool tape piping, 2 rows of trim on standing collar.
    • All visible buttonholes hand sewn.
  • Fatigue blouse
    • Of wool flannel with a visible `wale' in the fabric, in a shade between a medium and dark blue color. A "wale" means you can see the diagonal weave. Avoid the blackish-blue material that fades to purple; it is the wrong color and it is too heavy. The color will NOT be a blackish `navy' blue which fades to an even more unacceptable purple color. The correct blouse has a short collar and faced lapels and cuffs. Four evenly spaced US eagle buttons should fit into hand-worked buttonholes. Sleeves should have a small, scalloped vent in the rear of the cuff. Unlined versions have all seams flat-felled. Lined versions should have a one-piece body lining of wool or wool/cotton weave and a sleeve lining of muslin.
• Pants
  • Mounted Pattern Trousers
    • Made of sky-blue kersey-weave wool.
    • Top of the waist band should reach the wearer's navel.
    • Reinforced seat and instep strap.
    • Thin, tapering waist band.
    • Narrow, three to five button fly.
    • Side pockets that start below the waist-band.
    • All detail work, especially buttonholes, finished by hand.
• Shirts
  • US Issue Shirts:
    • Domet Flannel will have three tin buttons: one at the neck and one at each cuff.
      • Domet flannel is a cotton warp and wool weft, off-white in color.
    • Gray Wool Flannel will have 4 or 5 tin buttons, with two or three on a placket front and one on each cuff.
    • Blue Wool Flannel will have 4 or 5 tin buttons and almost always have a breast pocket
    • Knit:
  • Civilian Pattern Shirt
    • Made of 100 percent natural materials in woven check or plaid material, or with a printed geometric pattern on them. 
    • Small metal, bone, wood, shell, or mother-of-pearl buttons.
    • Fall down collar or a banded collar, with or without a detachable collar.
    • One, two or no pockets.
    • No calico and no oversized wooden buttons.
• Suspenders/Braces
  • Not an issue item, civilian pattern of period materials and attachments.
• Drawers
  • Canton flannel, cotton flannel, wool knit, and wool flannel all acceptable.
  • Button closure.
  • White, natural, colored acceptable.
• Footwear
  • Socks - of solid-color yarn: off-white, gray, buff, blue, or bluish-gray. No rings or bands of contrasting color. No elastic. Of wool, cotton or a wool/cotton union. No modern hunting socks.
  • Shoes - Issue brogans with pegged or sewn soles. Heel plates optional. 
  • Boots - correctly constructed, below the knee, military style boot. 
    • Single-piece vamp.
    • Pegged or sewn soles.
• Overcoat
  • Mounted pattern: Of correct make and construction. Sky blue wool kersey, double breasted with cape extending to the edge of the cuff. 
  • Foot pattern is accepted: Of correct make and construction. Sky blue wool kersey, single breasted with cape extending to elbow, and stand-up collar. 

Accouterments

• U.S. issue M1858 sword belt - Of black buff or bridle leather
  • 2 piece enlisted eagle buckle with applied silver wreath.
  • Shoulder and saber straps.
• Cap pouch
• Pistol Cartridge Box - For pistol cartridges - 3 sizes for .36 and 2 for .44 (one for 6 hole packets, one for 7 hole packets)- we do not carry extra cylinders! 
• Holster - Black leather, butt forward, end plug, worn on right side. 
• Carbine Cartridge box - M1860 or "Sharps."
• Carbine Sling - Of black buff or bridle leather with iron roller snap hook. 
• Haversack - US issue tarred, may be worn on saddle or person. 
• Canteen - M1858 smooth-side 
  • cotton strap or un-dyed leather strap with iron roller buckle and leather safe.
  • NO snap-hooks.
  • Wool covered; with jean, or blanket material.
• Blanket - Gray/brown US Issue with black stripes woven in. 
• Shelter half - Light canvas with grommets and bone buttons. Paperbacked tin buttons accepted.
• Gum blanket and/or poncho - with small grommets

Weaponry
Company's A,B,C,D were originally armed with Enfield rifles (It is not known which model was issued.  The M1853 was the most commonly used Enfield used by both sides in the Civil War.) In the summer of '63 the 1st Battalion privately purchased 200 Frank Wesson rifles with the copper or brass Kittredge cartridge box made for the Wesson cartridges. Another 151 Wesson rifles were purchased by the War Department and issued to new recruits most likely in July and August ’63. 

Company B was armed with 36 cal Navy Colt revolvers, and 10 troopers in each company (A, B, C and D only) were issued M1855 Springfield Carbine pistols (58 cal). 

Company's E,F,G, and H were issued Spencer rifles with bayonet (possibly never issued), frog, and a musket style cartridge box (exact style unknown). The bayonet and frog was the same as issued for the Sharps Rifle.

Company I was issued predominantly Wesson rifles.
Company K was issued Merrill Carbines (It is not known which model it was issued) and some Colt Army .44 revolvers. 
Co. L was issued predominantly Wesson rifles. 

Besides sabres and pistols, these were the only weapons in the regiment.  The Regiment was also issued four 12 lb. Mountain Howitzers and 2 unknown pieces. 

Due to this relatively expensive hobby, and the difficulty in getting Spencer rifles, we accept Spencer, Smith, and Sharps carbines (In that order of priority) to portray “generic” cavalry. Spencer carbines, Spencer Rifles, Merrill Carbines, Frank Wesson Rifles, Joslyn Carbines, and Smith Carbines (when portraying the 11th Kansas) are preferred when reenacting the 11th. The Joslyn Carbines, either the 62, interim, or 64 models were issued to Company E and Company H had some as replacements.

Carbine 

To maintain uniformity, the Spencer Rifle is the preferred "long gun". However, we understand that those reproductions are hard to find and not very accurate to portray other units. For that reason the Spencer Carbine, Smith Carbine, and Sharps carbine will also be accepted (in that order of priority).       

• Pistol - One sidearm or no sidearm - No "spare" cylinders. Pistols are loaded using cartridges

The 11th was armed with a variety of pistols. The 1st Battalion had mostly Colt Navy pistols, while the 2nd Battalion (Companies E, F, G, H) were armed mostly with Old Army Remington’s and some Beals.  Companies I, K, and L were armed with whatever could be found.  These Companies were mostly armed with Colt Army and Navy, and Remington Army Revolvers. There were a small number of M1861 Colt Navies (less than 20) purchased by the 2nd Battalion.  It is reasonable to assume as the Civil War wore on, the Regiment would receive New Army Remington’s as well as newer models of the Colt Army revolver. The correct sidearm is dependent on what company we plan to portray.

• Non-issue "Private purchase" side arms must be approved beforehand.
• Saber - (repo sabers are generally junk - do not acquire a saber without assistance) Must be correctly constructed with wire wrapped, leather bound grip and peened tang. (sabers with the nut on the end will not be accepted.)
  • U.S. Model 1840 "Wrist-breaker"
  • U.S. Model 1860 "Light Cavalry"
  • Sabre Knot: With a tied leather lace turks-head, not an embossed sleeve. 

Horse Equipment

• Saddle - Model 1859 McClellan - All iron hardware, including jappaned or blued iron bar buckles.
  • Coat-straps should be of correct weight with correct buckles, leather stops recommended.
  • Wool web girth and surcingle with iron roller buckles. 
  • Crupper was an issued item
  • Breast straps (martingales), were not an issued item, in the 1859-1874 standard issue (though troopers would go out of their way to get one on rare occurrences). Any breast strap should therefore be of civilian pattern or field produced (three leather straps joined by an iron ring) Brass heart sutler row breast straps are not allowed.
  • Hooded wooden stirrups, no toe straps.
  • Saddle-Bags
    • Smaller black bags with iron buckle closure.
    • Should contain a correctly reproduced or original curry comb, brush, hoof-pick, and horseshoes.
• Carbine Socket - U.S. issue of black bridle leather and iron hardware with pronounced wasp waist.
• Halter - U.S. issue of black bridle leather and iron hardware. 
• Bridle - Blackened bridle leather 
  • 3 or 6 buckle.
  • All buckles should be jappaned or blued iron bar buckles.
  • NO Rosettes on brow-band.
  • Bit - U.S. issued iron bit
  • Link Strap - with iron wire snap hook. 
  • Enlisted Reins - sewn to bit and in the center.
• Watering Bit & Reins (Optional)
• Nosebag (Optional) 
  • Flat bottom; rounded bottom accepted.
  • Black or un-dyed leather with iron roller buckle.
• Picket Pin and Lariat (Optional) 
  • 4-strand, left-laid hemp.
  • whipped at one end.
  • Eye spliced to hand forged iron picket pin.
• Horse Blanket - U.S. issued blue wool with orange stripe woven in. 
  • "U.S." hand stitched in center.
  • Orange stripe should be lighter shade as per originals if possible.
  • Saddle-pads are discouraged - use your issue grey wool blanket or shelter half.

Horses 
Generally solid colored (aside from stars, blazes, stripes, snips, socks, stockings, etc) no Paints, Appaloosas or other breeds with stand-out colorings and markings. 
Preferred breeds include: Quarter, Morgan, and Canadian.

Other/Personal/Optional Items 
Store personal items in blanket roll, saddlebags, haversack, pockets, etc. 
The only "modern" personal items you should have on you are your car key and any medicines you require. Your car key should be placed somewhere safe and out of sight - you don't need the whole ring just the key to get into your vehicle. Medicines should be stowed in a period container as best as possible not only to hide it, but to protect it.

• Issue tin cup, boiler, mucket - no speckleware or stainless.
• Folding pocket knife
• Personal hygiene items.
  • Tooth brush.
  • Small looking glass (mirror).
  • Comb.
  • Shaving equipment.
• Cotton or Linen ration & poke bags.
• Small bottles or flasks.
• Spoon and/or a fork - no stainless.
• Plate (not a pie tin), small sheet metal skillet, canteen half - no cast iron.
• Pipe & tobacco pouch.
• Housewife (needles, thread, thimbles, buttons, patch cloth)
• Pencil and paper.
• Hard candy like lemon drops.
• Lucifers (matches).
• Period eyewear, or contact lenses if required - no darkened glasses.

.  Handkerchief.

• Gambling paraphernalia.
• Wallet.
• Pocket watch.

 
Civilians
 Women's clothing:

• Most dresses worn during the day were made of cotton, wool, silk, or a combination of these fibers.   Cotton dresses should be made of period correct prints.  Those are widely available in all good quilt shops. Hancock Fabrics usually carries nice period cottons at affordable prices.
• The white blouse & calico skirt is not a period appropriate ensemble.  The skirt and bodice should be of the same fabric, connected at the waist.  The only thing slightly resembling the white blouse/colored skirt thing is a garibaldi outfit, which is a very high fashion, younger ladies outfit – it is not appropriate for this event.
  • If made of wool or silk, the dress bodice was always worn quite fitted.  Ideally, cotton bodices should be gathered.  Darted cotton dresses did exist, but they were less common and should not be worn with fashion bonnets or dressy shawls.  A cotton dress can be worn with a slat or corded bonnet, or a plain straw bonnet.  Some women wore cotton "work" or "wash" dresses over smaller cages or hoops; there is documentation for servants who annoyed their employers by knocking over knick knacks while dusting in their hoops.  Work dresses can also be worn over corded petticoats, but please be aware that we are still researching this topic.
  • Most cotton dresses were made with a full gathered sleeve (sometimes called bishop sleeves.)  Coat sleeves were also very popular.  Pagoda sleeves were more popular in the late 1850s and should be saved for finer fabrics such as silk, a very fine sheer cotton or wool. Pagoda sleeves are never appropriate for printed cottons or calicoes.   (Just imagine doing laundry or cooking over a fire with pagoda sleeves!)
  • Skirts are very full; pleated or gauged to the bodice.  They should be long enough to hide the ankles but short enough to permit walking and working.  1 1/2 to 3" off the ground is about right for most ladies.
  • A small white collar (usually around 1 - 1 1/2" wide) or a neck-kerchief. The collar was hard to keep clean on the trail, so the neck-kerchief was common.  Kerchiefs could be of various colors – made from scraps.  
  • For women, dresses worn during the day should fasten in the front either with hooks and eyes and/or buttons.  Shank buttons could be sewn to the front for decoration while the bodice itself fastens with hooks and eyes. For girls and young teens, dresses fasten in the back.  Earrings can be small gold hoops or "bobs," but they should always be pierced. 
    • Please, no modern undergarments or shoes.  The underpinnings are the foundation to your clothing that gives a period look. Please wear a chemise under a well fitted corset or stays, and several (not just one) petticoats.  Two are usually a minimum.  A corded petticoat works – it’s very out of style, but is nice to keep the petticoats off your legs.  You would still need a couple of over-petticoats to smooth the lines and give you the correct look. While it is true that not every Civil War era lady wore a corset, absolutely none ever wore a bra.  The lines of modern undergarments show very clearly.
    • There are many excellent shoe makers who reproduce Civil War era ladies' footwear.  Until you can afford a good pair, you might look for a plain lace-up ankle boot and remove the "speed laces."  These days nice plain black ballerina flats are widely available at very good prices.  You should wear plain white stockings (we have found no documentation for striped stockings). You can find good cotton knee-highs at the Vermont Country store and at many internet sites.
    • Hats should be appropriate for the time period – a slat bonnet, quilted or corded sunbonnet is the best item for the trail.  They are easy to make, and can be made from scraps.  It should not match the dress – they didn’t do that.
    • For a working impression, such as a trail emigrant, an apron is a must have.  It should not be white, as that is impossible to keep clean on the trail.  Women’s aprons should be a pinner style, or a basic type tied around the waist. 

Children’s clothing
Rather than re-invent the wheel, the best article we've seen online about children's clothing is Elizabeth Stewart Clark's article on "Assembling a "Best Bet" Wardrobe: Infants and Children", which we recommend that all parents of young reenactors read.
A couple of key points:

• Children must be dressed in appropriate civilian attire. There is a tendency in reenacting for parents to dress little boys like pint sized miniature soldiers. There is no significant documentation for this (NUG) and it should be avoided
• Sometimes children's styles were military-influenced, such as Zouave jackets, Garibaldi shirts, etc, but actual uniforms must be avoided.
• Little boys under the age of 5 or 6 should wear dresses, or little suits with pantaloons not adult trousers. After age 6, trousers start to get longer and by 10 or 12, possibly earlier, boys are wearing adult length trousers.
• Civilian patterned sack coats or short Eton type jackets are both appropriate for young boys. As they get older, the clothing is the same as older men's civilian clothing.
• Boys' hair should be parted on the side; girls' hair should be parted in the middle. Hair parts were a secondary gender characteristic in the era and this is very important.
• Girls dresses should fasten in the back and can be either high necked or boat necked styles, with long or short sleeves. By the time a girl gets old enough to wear a front-closing dress, she should also be wearing stays or a corset.
• Girls skirt lengths should get progressively longer as they get older. An economical period way of dealing with this is to make dresses with "growth tucks" that can be gradually let out as a child gets older. In addition, the heavily gathered back closing bodices were made in such a way that they could easily be let out as a child grew. As usual, period clothing was a "system" not just a matter of styles.
• Authentic reproduction children's shoes are an expense that many in the hobby cannot afford. The best budget option is to buy second hand authentic shoes outgrown by another young reenactor. Sometimes period plausible styles can be found at discount shoe places such as Payless and Wal-mart. Avoid thick soles and speed laces. Often the best bet is to buy front lacing "paddock boots" or elastic gusseted "jodphur boots" for horseback riding. Other than having rounded instead of squared toes, these are virtually identical to period shoes. Sometimes the paddock boots come with speed laces but these can be removed and replaced with metal grommets by a good shoemaker. They can be obtained either on EBay or from a riding shop. Some tack stores sell outgrown children's items on consignment.
• Children often adapt better to first person immersion situations than adults do -- not surprising, as "make believe" is a staple of child's play. Some of the most skilled reenactor we know are 12 or under. Child reenactors must be encouraged to get into the spirit of the event and "play the game". No modern toys are allowed.

Men's Clothing: 
Your Most Important Items for your Civilian Impression:

• Sack Coat: If you are coming to civilian reenacting from an authentic Confederate military impression, you probably have most of the needed items. The one new thing you really DO need is some form of outerwear to replace your military coat or jacket. Unless you are working as a blacksmith at a hot forge with your sleeves rolled up throughout a civilian event, or are in similar circumstances, you would probably not be seen on the street without some form of outerwear, either an over shirt, smock, sack coat, paletot or frock coat. We recommend a civilian sack coat as it will give you the maximum latitude in the types of persons you can portray, whereas overshirts and particularly smocks are inherently a "working" impression while frock coats and paletots are more formal. Generally, we recommend that you get a sack coat first, and then consider acquiring a frock or paletot and a work overshirt or smock later on if you wish to broaden your impression. 
• With the above guidelines stated, please keep in mind the situation we are reenacting. A working impression is most preferred.
• Waistcoat: Generally, adult men were thought to be only half-dressed if they appeared in their shirtsleeves without a waistcoat. This is particularly true when wearing a white "boiled' shirt, although photographic evidence suggests this social convention was not always applied. Generally, if you are wearing a white shirt, you should wear a waistcoat and if you are wearing a checked or patterned shirt of a more casual / working type, you should leave your sack coat on, unless doing manual labor.
• Other Items: If you are coming from doing Federal, you will probably also need trousers and a civilian-type hat. If you are coming into civilian reenacting as a new reenactor, you will need all of the items detailed above. As trousers, shoes, etc that are used for military impressions are over-represented among male civilian reenactors, as most have come from military, we encourage you to focus on styles that were specifically civilian in acquiring these new items, where budgets permit.

Most men coming into civilian reenacting have previously reenacted military. Many of the items you acquired for your military impression can also be used for civilian, particularly if you do Confederate:
Items from Your Military Impression You Can Use:

• Shirts: Most shirts used by soldiers were privately made rather than issue items and all shirts used for an authentic military impression will work for civilian, other than the Federal issue shirt. The wool Federal contract shirt will even work for a woolen work shirt. If you are coming from mainstream military, sutler row quality shirts, provided they are in a good fabric, can be upgraded by replacing wooden saucer type buttons with china buttons, and overworking the buttonholes by hand.
• Trousers: Richmond Depot pattern trousers were modeled on civilian patterns and are acceptable for civilian, although gray trousers are over-represented in "galvanized civilians" and you should aim as your first impression upgrade to get more specifically civilian trousers in fabrics and colors other than gray jeancloth. Some good options include cassimere, satinette, wool broadcloth and linen. Colors should generally be subdued and neutral for solid colored trousers, as they will be more economical and all-purpose. However, fairly wide checks were also seen in trousers of the period, and this might be a fun option for expanding your impression later. Obviously military trousers such as light blue federal trousers are not acceptable because the color is so distinctive, although you can probably get away with the dark blue ones as they are unobtrusive.
• Suspenders and belts: Suspenders were not a military issue item and any period-correct suspenders used in military reenacting are suitable for civilian reenacting. Belts with plain, non military buckles, e.g. plain singled tanged or double tanged "snake" buckles are acceptable.
• Footwear: Military brogans were based on working men's shoes of the era and are acceptable for a working class or rural middle class impression. If you decided to expand your impression to include upper middle class or urban middle class, we recommend upgrading to a pair of specifically civilian patterned shoes. Military boots were also modeled on civilian boots and are also acceptable.
• Hats: Slouch hats, porkpies, beehives, mechanics caps, etc were not military issue items and can be worn for civilian reenacting. You cannot use military issued items such as kepis, bummers, Hardee hats, etc.
• Waistcoats / Vests: The high-necked military style waistcoats are not appropriate for civilian reenacting. However, lower necked, civilian patterned waistcoats in authentic materials are appropriate and heavily encouraged.

 
Note about the dance:

• The dance is not a “ball.”  Balls were fancy, indoor, high society events with very specific social customs.  This does not qualify.  This is a dance – a casual social gathering often held outdoors or in barns.  Hoops, silks, and other finery that would get ruined in an outdoor setting would not be appropriate.  Wearing the nicest thing you have (which may not be that nice by eastern standards) would be appropriate.  For women, that means the cleanest, least ratty dress you have with either a white collar with a brooch, or a clean kerchief, hair redone, face washed, no apron.  For men, a clean shirt with your vest, coat and trousers brushed (wool) or shaken out as best you can, comb your hair and wash your face.  Remember…..we’re poor, our stuff is worn, but we can still take pride in presenting ourselves in the best possible manner.  Besides ladies, those poor sad soldiers will be happy just to see a female presence, no matter the condition of the clothes! 

In Case of Emergency The Converse County Ambulance Service will respond to the Fort Fetterman Site through 911.  Daniel Mattern, EMT Basic, will also be on site.
T Basic on Site is Daniel Mattern as well.

The State Park Requests a donation of five dollars from every participant to be used to fund improvements to the site.s

Registration for Fort Fettermen May 
Please join us for a weekend of Civilwar period military instruction, first person interpretive improvement and historical camaraderie for both soldiers and period civilians. All pre-registered participants will receive rations for Saturday and Sunday, water straw firewood, restroom amenities, period food, and local hay for horses. The pre-registration fee is $30.00 for individuals and $35.00 for families. Cash/Check will be accepted. If writing a check attention Daniel Matern memo Camp of Instruction Fort Fettermen. Check/Cash can be mailed to 3243 South Poplar Casper Wyoming 82601. Once Check/Cash revieced then I will be printing of receipt for all. Cut off for Registration will be the eveing  May 2nd 2017. Individuals with medical needs must notify staff prior to arrivial to ensure proper accommodations as applicable. Daniel Mattern Email is dkmattern@hotmail.com or Cell Phone Number is (307)259-0432 
 
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